Lady Vintage answers questions on:
• Lilli Ann
• Bakelite
• Vintage Swimwear
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Dear Lady Vintage,
Who was Lilli Ann?
To the astonishment of many, there was no individual named “Lilli Ann”. Lilli Ann was a clothing label whose popularity peaked in the 1940's - 1950's. Because of good quality materials and fashionable design, Lilli Ann dresses, coats and suits are still very sought after among vintage collectors.
Adolph Schuman began his dress wholesaling business in 1933 in San Francisco. He named his company “Lilli Ann” after his wife Lillian. He built 2 factory buildings on the corner of 16th and Harrison which were considered state-of-the-art and which were still in use well into the 1980's. By the 1940's sales exceeded 1 million dollars annually.
Following WW II Schuman opened a Lilli Ann show room in Paris. Schuman became active in promoting fashions between San Francisco and Paris and organized the “San Francisco to Paris Fashion Show”. The shows consisted of lavish runway productions conducted in both cities. These shows allowed Schuman to network with important Paris fashion designers such as Coco Channel and Cristobal Balenciaga. Balenciaga provided, anonymously, designs for the Lilli Ann line as a personal favor to Schuman.
Lilli Ann clothing were made from the best textiles imported from France and Italy. Initially “San Francisco” was on the Lilli Ann labels. When Schuman opened a showroom in Paris the labels then read “Lilli Ann - Paris - San Francisco”. Because Schuman placed very large orders from the Blin & Blin textile mill in France, their label will at times appear along with the Lilli Ann label.
The Lilli Ann company is best known for its suits and coats. Many of the designs for the suits were along the style of “Hollywood Glamour” and were known for being well tailored with hand finished seams. Fur and/or jewels would be included in the design of many of the suits and coats. The coats were frequently made in Paris of woven (“tisse”) wool and the label indicated it as such. Because of their glamorous style, Lilli Ann suits and dresses were ideal for special occasions such as cocktail parties and the theater.
The Lilli Ann company went in different directions in terms of designers and fashion lines throughout the “60's and ‘70's. After the death of Adolph Schuman in 1985 the Lilli Ann Company was run by his second wife Jo Schuman and son-in-law Daniel Benatar. The Company was eventually sold to an Asian conglomerate Jaran Inc.
Vintage clothing collectors will always appreciate the Lilli Ann label for its glamorous style, quality tailoring and fit. A vintage closet is not complete unless it has a “Lilli Ann”.
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Dear Lady Vintage,
What is Bakelite and when was it first used for jewelry?
Bakelite comes to us with a very interesting history. Because of its many colors and designs its beauty has reached across the decades to enthral and exite women of every walk of life. Bakelite jewelry has become highly collectible with many individuals amassing large collections only for show, while others not only collect but also wear their many unusual pieces.
Bakelite is the commonly used name given to jewelry made from resinous materials and named in honor of its inventor, Dr. Leo H. Baekeland, a Belgian chemist. After receiving a patent for his discovery Dr. Baekeland established the General Bakelite Company and from the 1920's forward jewelry was produced from this new material.
Bakelite was the first plastic type material invented in 1907. It was actually a synthetic resin or thermosetting plastic (formed from a combination of formaldehyde and carbolic acid) which meant that once heat and pressure were applied to mould the material into a particular shape, it could not be reversed. It would not burn or melt and made a great insulator. If fillers such as wood or fibers were added to the Bakelite the result was a material that was extremely strong. Industry used Bakelite for products such as insulators, electrical and auto parts. After Baekeland’s patent ran out, other companies introduced similar materials known as Catalin, Prystal, Marbelette and Durez. These materials are all generally referred to as Bakelite. The material known as Prystal would, over time, turn an amber color which collectors call "applejuice" Bakelite.
Jewelry made from Bakelite can be found in many different colors and combination of colors as seen in earrings, bangles, rings and brooches which are all very collectable. The most common colors were yellow, red, butterscotch, brown, green and white. When 2 different colors were combined the result was a marbleized effect. Many jewelry pieces such as bangles were either hand carved or lathe carved then polished with either a soft cloth or on a felt wheel. Sometimes the Bakelite would be carved from the inside so the design would show on the outside. This was known as "reversed carving". Other materials such as wood, metal, Lucite and rhinestones would be added to the Bakelite for additional enhancement. During the depression Bakelite jewelry was very affordable for many women and it remained very popular until 1942 when the war effort required the material for various uses on the battlefield.
Today, Bakelite remains highly collectable with prices for rare items going for up to several thousands of dollars. Many items though are still well in reach of the average collector and so can still be purchased, worn and enjoyed. Start your collection today with a bangle or brooch and you too will discover the same attraction for this beautiful material as those many women did, so many decades ago.
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Dear Lady Vintage,
Which designer names are popular when it comes to women's vintage swimwear and what are some characteristics of women's vintage swimwear?
Look for Cole, Jantzen, Catalina, Halston, Rose Marie Reid, Charles James and Speedo.
Women's swimwear took many fashion twists and turns throughout the years. New fabrics made swimwear lighter in weight when wet and allowed them to dry quicker. Prior to the 1930's many bathing suits were made of wool and were heavy when wet. During the 1950's new materials were introduced that were quick drying, waterproof and had minor shrinkage.
A style common in the 1940's and 1950's was the two-piece bare midriffed suit that offerred wide cut legs and a wide seat area. The skirted suits of the 1940's will have a high waist and upper thigh coverage. During the 1950's many of the strapless and halter top suits contained figure enhancing padded cups. The one-piece suit with its lower cut legs was ideal for women with hourglass figures.
As for colors, black and white was a very common color combo for vintage swimwear. In the 1940's, muted colors were popular and yellow and pastels were common during the 1950's. Leopard print was extremely popular in the 1950's and 1960's.
Choosing a bathing suit style is a personal preference. Whether it be a designer name or not, choose what you like and what flatters your figure. Your vintage choice will guarantee that you will be a poolside hit!
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